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I could. While I was there I also cut off the original standoffs. The other thing I'm debating is if I should also painted the bottom or keep it two-tone. I tested all these and clip the leads, which I regretted because I need to soldering C24, which is a radial cap, on its side. That would be C1_core1-C1_core4, C2_core1-C1_core4, Q1_core1-C1_core4, C16-C23, and C24. It will get in the way of some of the digital in/out connections along the front of the PCB, so I'll have to work around that in how I do my headers. I used the blue vinyl dye on the C64C case top. It still ypu porn annunci donne incontri can't lie on its side, but it seems there's now enough space for it to fit under the keyboard. My Dremel work was imperfect so there are some areas where I scuffed the inner surface of the case. I'm debating if I want to repaint the side or if I just risk making it look worse. The screw can still be used in the screw column I cut into, but the notch is pretty close to where the screw head rests, so I'll need to be sure I'm not shorting the PCB accidentally. It came out pretty good except for on the sides where you can see some drip marks. M rocks) so I could just order another one and redo it, but I kind of feel guilty ordering one single component multiple times from Arrow.

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I ordered one of these the other day for 4 cents (and free shipping. After placing the PCB on top of the standoffs I marked on the column where the Dremel will cut. The only thing in the way from mounting the PCB closer to the front is the center screw column, so I decided to use my Dremel cutting disk to make a notch for the PCB to stick into into the screw column. If I shove the MB-6582 into the breadbin case, its right up against the back wall of the case. I placed double sided tape on the bottom of the case and attached the some standoffs to this. So there was much case work this weekend.

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